I grew up in Santa Ana, California on First and Bristol Street right behind El Toro Meat Market. A staple in the community, el super offered not only meat, but fresh tortillas, masa, harder-to-find Mexican produce (like tejocotes or guanabanas), and—most importantly—a very stocked cheese counter that never failed to bring me (and my belly) great joy.
Cheese was present, not only as a seasoning for most meals (queso cotija and fresco add an inimitable tang, salt, and creaminess to flautas or frijoles de la olla), but as the star. Quesillo (also known as queso Oaxaca) and Panela, especially.
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