These Kimchi Patatas Bravas Are Proudly Inauthentic

Anonymous

Which stories are being told, how, and by whom—these questions are very much on our minds as of late. Are there hard and fast rules to consider when overlaying the subjective (taste: liking, palatal) with objective (taste: “good,” “cultivated”)? When distinguishing appropriation from appreciation, assimilation from accommodation?

In Jikoni (Kishwali for “kitchen”), food writer, restaurateur, British chef, journalist, and stylist Ravinder Bhogal takes these rules, stuffs them with paneer, then tops them with kimchi.

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