What is the best part of a salmon?
Sushi bars might favor fatty salmon and beady salmon roe; poké places will treasure the leaner, tauter flesh; and pan-fried salmon fillets might be the perennial dish du jour at brunch spots, served with a barely dressed salad and a side of sweet potato fries, no less. But for me, the best cut of salmon has always been the collar—that sickle-shaped chunk of flesh between the head of the fish and its belly.